MX83 Ignition switch contacts and starter relay mod

After identifying and replacing the starter solenoid contacts in my mx83 I still had intermittent starting problems.

Voltage drop at the starter solenoid, but not other circuits, indicates a fault in the starter solenoid circuit. When powering the starter solenoid directly from the battery with a test wire it pulled in hard without a problem.

Older Toyotas don’t run a starter relay, Instead they run all the starter solenoid power through the ignition and neutral switches. Over time the copper contacts degrade, the grease dries out, and the wiring goes high resistance. Once this occurs the circuit can’t deliver the 10-15A required to pull the solenoid in.

There are fixes for this:

  • Replace or clean the ignition switch
  • Replace or clean the neutral switch
  • Test all the wiring
  • Install a starter relay

All the detailed information for these is available elsewhere, I’ll post links and list some pointers:

Replace or clean the ignition switch

Unless yours is totally ruined (cracked case or worn through contacts) don’t replace it.

This section is now updated with my own photos and more instruction

  1. Take the ignition switch out
  2. Pry each leg of the white case up very gently, it’s brittle.
  3. Note: Be careful when disassembling, the black plastic carrier is loaded with springs and balls for the detent of the switch. It shoots apart. You don’t need to take it out of the housing.
  4. Take the contacts off the carrier
  5. Wipe the contacts (including the posts) clean with brake cleaner or similar
  6. Lightly sand the contacts and apply fresh dielectric grease
  7. Clip back together and reinstall


  • Don’t worry about putting match marks on the case – it can only clip together one way – that’s why all the clips/legs of the case are different sizes.
  • Don’t worry about the orientation of the contact discs – between the square and round locating tabs they can only go in one way.

This helped a lot, but didn’t 100% solve my problem.

Replace or clean the neutral switch

When they go bad jiggle the shifter in park or neutral and see if it starts. It can be cleaned like the ignition switch, but it’s under the car and will need the shift linkage removed to get it out. Refer to TSRM for lining up the switch when reinstalling.

Although I could not find a specified resistance in the TSRM, my resistance was low and the problem persisted with the switch bypassed.

Test all the wiring

Make sure you’re getting power at the solenoid. Visually inspect the starter and gearbox wiring harness for damage. The next step would be to pull out your dash. Unless you have no power at the solenoid, don’t hunt wiring.

Edit: US spec cars have an immobilizer and a starter relay. The immobilizer switches signal ground on the relay. The wiring diagram (TEWD) is available online.

Install a starter relay

The mx83 is conventional, but it will need to pass a small amount of current through the relay coil, as the ECU’s neutral switch sense circuit normally grounds through the starter coil. I used a normal automotive relay and it was fine.

Image from linked article

  • I like how short the wiring is and the grounding of the relay.
  • I recommend a fused relay. I used a 30A rated relay with an inbuilt fuse holder, swapped down to a 20A fuse.
  • Put it in a position where it’s not going to get wet, oily, or dirty
  • Observe the high current feed into the relay is unfused, make sure the connector isn’t going to slip off or shake loose.
  • Use fully insulated spade connectors which fit super snug on the relay and solenoid terminal.

MX83 Cressida starter solenoid contacts

My starter solenoid contacts wore out. Here is info for a Cressida/Crown/Supra with a denso starter.


Although the denso starter solenoids are fairly common, I wanted to make sure I was ordering the right parts. Many rebuild kits on ebay and amazon are vague in their application list, and vague is never good.

I checked my part number of my starter solenoid as 28150-41060 as used on 5M, 6M, 7M, RZ engines. As I couldn’t find a rebuild kit listing exactly that part number, I took it apart and here are the dimensions I measured:

  • ~20.65mm Plunger body diameter
  • ~36.8mm Plunger ring contact diameter
  • ~96.65mm Overall rod length including top hat
  • 8mm diameter terminal posts outside the body of the solenoid
  • Extended wing (‘C’ shape) contacts – ~21.5 mm wide. Type 1 on the photo below:


This is valid for 28150-41060 only. If yours is a different P/N I encourage you to measure it – you need to take it apart anyway. When getting a kit, make sure to get one that includes a plunger, as the ring on it is a wearing contact too.

D-Link DWA-131 rev. E on Linux

Today’s topic: The D-Link DWA-131 Wireless N Nano USB Adapter.


Early models in round cases used chipsets which now have inbuilt support (rev A- realtek 8192su, rev B – realtek 8192cu), but the newer ones (revision E) use a realtek 8192eu. There is a driver available from D-Link, but for me it was a kernel-panicky mess.

This is a list of instructions that I used to install a driver hosted by github user jpostma which seems to be the official realtek driver with patches (for what? not sure, but it works) applied.

User Brainiarc7 suggests using which also has patches applied, as it is “Newer, and currently under maintenance.” I had a look at it, and it already has the DWA-131 device id, so I recommend you use it first.

This is for an ubuntu based linux distribution, but for others the principle is the same.

Plug the adapter in and determine the device ID, ensure it is 2001:3319 otherwise you have a different device:

$ lsusb
Bus 001 Device 004: ID 2001:3319 D-Link Corp.

Ensure you have the necessary prerequisites:

$ sudo apt-get install linux-headers-generic build-essential git

Clone the github repository with the driver source code:

$ git clone

Once the repository is downloaded, edit rtl8192eu/os_dep/linux/usb_intf.c
and add the device ID of our card, at around line 321.

#ifdef CONFIG_RTL8192E
    /*=== Realtek demoboard ===*/
    {USB_DEVICE_AND_INTERFACE_INFO(USB_VENDER_ID_REALTEK, 0x818B,0xff,0xff,0xff),.driver_info = RTL8192E},/* Default ID */
    {USB_DEVICE_AND_INTERFACE_INFO(USB_VENDER_ID_REALTEK, 0x818C,0xff,0xff,0xff),.driver_info = RTL8192E},/* Default ID */
    {USB_DEVICE(0x2001, 0x3319),.driver_info = RTL8192E}, /* D-Link - DWA131 Rev. E */

Edit rtl8192eu/Makefile and change 2 things:

  1. At about line 16 add a # to comment out a flag that causes compile problems on recent kernels:
    #EXTRA_CFLAGS += -Wno-error=date-time
  2. At about line 42 edit the line to switch power saving off:




Compile the driver:

$ cd rtl8192eu
$ make

If there are any problems with compilation go back and fix them (install libraries, etc.) before proceeding.

Install and load the driver:

$ sudo make install
$ sudo modprobe 8192eu

This is what worked for me, and since setting it up it’s been flawless.

McCulloch 4000 chainsaw parts diagram and tuning information

Here’s a scanned parts diagram for an old (1980’s?) McCulloch 4000 chainsaw, made in Italy, with a Tillotson carb. This is a little different than the ‘4000 California’ model.

Click for full size

The operator manual shared for the 3500/4000 series doesn’t have anything too interesting, but here’s the key information:

Fuel Mixture:

  • McCulloch oil 40:1
  • SAE40 2t 20:1

Chain Oil:

  • SAE 30 motor oil, or McCulloch chain oil no.201349
  • Refill the oil tank each time the saw is refueled

Tuning specs:

  • Spark plug gap: .5-.6 mm
  • Low speed base tune: 1 full turn out from closed
  • High speed base tune: 1 full turn out from closed

Service specs:

  • Chain tooth angle: 35 degrees
  • Every 10 hours: Remove sparkplug, clean and adjust gap
  • Every 20 hours: Replace sparkplug
  • Once a year: Contact your dealer for a full service (no explanation of what this includes)

There are 2 part numbers on the Toyota diagram!

If there are 2 or more part numbers for one part on your Toyota diagram, marked with a ※ (the x with dots means reference mark), look for a legend to explain further. Sometimes it’s on the next page. Different trim levels and equipment specification are fitted with different parts, usually this is made clear in the legend or part name.

However, sometimes you find something like this:


… Without an accompanying explanation. At first I thought it was a range of chassis numbers, but they’re actually date codes in the form YYMM. I don’t know how Toyota aligns the change over, so ask your parts guy if you need to.

It took me a little while to figure out, so now you know.